Mt. Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a ‘Dablam’ – the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name “Ama Dablam”. She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. If you have previous climbing experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world’s most impressive mountain then climbing expedition to Ama Dablam is the best suited. This Mountain is a technically demanding mountain for climbing in Nepal. It is considered an ornament of the Himalayas in Nepal. Although the height is only 6812m Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes.

Day 01 – Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1340m) stay overnight

Day 02 – Preparation day in Kathmandu

Day 03 – Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2800m) approx 4 hrs

Day 04 – Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m approx 6hrs walk)

Day 05 – Namche Bazaar rest day for acclimatization, you may walk to Everest view Hotel (3800m approx 2 hrs) seen Everest range mountain, back to Namche and visit Hilary and Sherpa museum

Day 06 – Trek from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche

Day 07 – Trek to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m A

pprox 4 hrs walk)

Day 08 РBase Camp preparation 

Day 09-26 – Climbing period

Day 27 – Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Namche

Day 28 – Trek back to Lukla

Day 29 – Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 30 – Final Departure

Equipment
To join the expedition to Ama Dablam you need the following specialist equipment:

  • Technical Ice Axe.

  • Technical Ice Hammer.

  • Crampons.

  • Harness.

  • 2 x Tape slings.

  • 3 x Screwgate Karabiners.

  • Descendeur / Abseil Device.

  • Ascendeur (Jumar).

  • Prussik Loops.

  • Double boots (e.g. La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 8000).

  • Overboots are required if using standard plastic boots.

  • 2 x 5 Season Sleeping Bags.

  • Full weight down jacket/salopette combination.

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